- Esther Oertel
- Posted On
Mensam Mundum – World Table: A rainbow in winter – cooking with citrus
LAKE COUNTY, Calif. – Citrus fruits, most of which ripen in the gloom of winter, can add a rainbow of color and bright flavor to the things we create in our kitchens when the skies are gray.
Can it be that the Earth understands that we need a little boost when the weather’s cold?
It would seem so, as many of our cheeriest fruits – both in color and flavor – arrive just in time to dispel the darkness of the fall and winter months.
Among these colorful offerings are persimmons, pomegranates, cranberries, and today’s topic, citrus fruits. Oranges of all types, lemons, tangerines, grapefruits, and the like provide a spectrum of flavor – from tart to sweet – to brighten both our mood and our food this time of year.
In my opinion, any array of citrus fruit is worthy of love – there are so many types! - but my heart has been known to especially skip a beat when I see a pile of Meyer lemons at the grocery store. They’re definitely a favorite of mine, as I love their delicate flavor.
They’re not as hardy in terms of shelf life as typical supermarket lemons, so (at least in our neck of the woods) they make a brief appearance when local growers have them available, which, depending on the characteristics of the season, can be any time between December and March.
It feels like their season is here for just a few minutes each year, and I try to take advantage of every second of it.
One of the loveliest attributes of citrus fruit, especially those in the orange family, is the scent of their skin. When I zest oranges and breathe in that sweet, energizing fragrance, I joke that if I were wealthy, I’d pay someone really well to walk near me zesting an orange at all times. It’s such a beautiful aroma and orange zest has become one of my go-to ingredients in cooking.
Eating oranges, grapefruits or tangerines unadorned and out of hand is a wonderful way to enhance one’s health. They’re rich in nutrients that support our immune system and stave off colds and flu, such as vitamin C. (Just one orange provides the daily dose of it.)
There is a plethora of ways to use them in cuisine, a number of which are listed below to get your creative juices (pun intended) flowing. With our global economy, most citrus is available year-round; however, they’re especially enjoyable now, at the peak of winter.
Use halved, whole, or in slices to enhance foods as they cook: Before cooking, stuff a fish with tarragon or thyme and sliced lemons or layer the lemon slices on top of fish fillets. A pork loin can be stuffed with grapefruit and fennel, or a chicken with lemon halves and rosemary. Get creative with your choices by trying different combinations - orange with chicken or lime with fish, for example. Be careful of the seeds, though, as they can impart a bitter taste. It’s best to remove them.
Juice to use as an acid: Release the flavorful juice in citrus – tangy or sweet, depending on the fruit – to use as an alternative to vinegar in salad dressings or marinades. Different citrus flavors can be combined and layered for interesting results – limes with lemons, for example, or a mixture of juices from different types of oranges. Feel free to mix citrus juice with other acids, such as vinegars made from apple cider, white wine, or rice. For best results, be sure your fruit is at room temperature and gently roll it a bit before pressing or squeezing by hand. This allows more juice to be released.
Add to sauces: Julia Child’s life was changed forever when she was in Paris and tasted beurre blanc, a lemony butter sauce. It so wowed her that she decided to learn to cook. Citrus adds tang to lift and enhance the flavor of a sauce, whether it’s just a squeeze at the end or a major ingredient. Be sure to add the citrus, especially lemon, at the end to keep it fresh. If your sauce contains dairy, be careful not to add too much as it may cause the sauce to curdle. (Milk with the addition of an acid creates cheese.)
Balance rich and creamy dishes with citrus: A bit of citrus juice or zest – most commonly lemon – can bring balance to heavy or overly rich dishes, like creamy soups, gratins and risottos. Even stews or heavily sauced pastas can benefit from a bit of citrus. (I like to add an orange studded with a few cloves to flavor beef stew.)
Zest for added flavor: Zest is the grated skin of citrus fruit. In addition to the benefit of its flavor, it packs an antioxidant and nutrient punch, as these health benefits tend to reside mostly just beneath the skin. Citrus zest can be added to so many things – pasta dishes, baked goods, sauces, vinaigrettes, breadcrumbs, mayo, and brines all benefit from its bright flavor. Be sure to wash and dry fruit before zesting (and if you’re both juicing and zesting the fruit, it’s much easier to do the zesting first). Use only the thin top layer of colorful skin and avoid the white pith beneath, as it can be bitter. The easiest way to zest citrus is to use a rasp grater, but if one isn’t available, a paring knife can be used to cut strips of peel, which can then be finely chopped. It’s best to prepare the zest just prior to using, as it can lose some of its flavor while sitting out.
Roast to intensify flavor: Roasting citrus intensifies its flavor and brings out its natural sweetness. Pieces of roasted citrus can flavor and sweeten breakfast dishes like yogurt, oatmeal, or pancakes, as well as add brightness to savory dishes like chicken or vegetables. To roast, cut citrus fruits into segments or slices, toss with a little olive oil, and roast at 425 degrees Fahrenheit until some of the juices have evaporated and the fruit is lightly caramelized. The skin may be left on if the fruit is thinly sliced; however, it’s best to remove the skin and white pith of the slices are thicker. For sweet applications, a sprinkle of cinnamon or drizzle of honey may be added before roasting. Roasted citrus may be enjoyed warm, room temperature, or cold. Toss the roasted pieces with winter vegetables like broccoli, Brussels sprouts or carrots, or add them to baked fish or chicken. Alternatively, the citrus pieces can be roasted in the oven on the same pan as whatever they’re paired with.
Segment to toss in salads: Segmented pieces of oranges or grapefruits make a nice addition to a fresh salad and other dishes. An efficient way to segment them is to cut a thick slice off the top and the bottom of the fruit with a sharp knife so the pulp is exposed. Hold the fruit upright and slice off the peel in thick strips, cutting around the contours of the fruit. Hold the peeled fruit over a bowl, and using the knife, carefully cut between the fruit and membrane on either side of each segment to free it, letting it drop into the bowl with the juices. Discard any seeds.
Finish with citrus: Like salt, citrus brings out the flavor of other ingredients. Finishing with a squeeze of citrus will brighten and enhance any dish, especially those that may taste dull.
Esther Oertel is a writer and passionate home cook from a family of chefs. She grew up in a restaurant, where she began creating recipes from a young age. She’s taught culinary classes in a variety of venues in Lake County and previously wrote “The Veggie Girl” column for Lake County News. Most recently she’s taught culinary classes at Sur La Table in Santa Rosa. She lives in Middletown.