My mother-in-law has a charming, if unusual, hobby: redecorating her home each month to reflect one of twelve rotating themes she’s determined should be celebrated at that particular time of year.
Some months are obvious (Christmas in December or Halloween in October), others not so much.
On the first day of September she took down knickknacks and pictures representing travel, August’s theme, and filled the house with all manner of apple-related items.
Faux apples of all shapes and sizes covered surfaces everywhere. This, combined with the chill that was hovering in the air that day, made me want to draw all things autumn around me like a mantle.
The fall frame of mind brought with it a pretty severe case of apple nostalgia, overwhelming me with memories of harvesting apples with my father in Upstate New York, of baking my first apple pie, of sweet-tart baked apple desserts pulled out of the oven by my mother.
There was only one cure, and I happily took it; that afternoon I trekked out to our lone surviving apple tree with bucket in hand and ripe apples on my mind.
The little tree had gnarled limbs on which grayish-green patches of lichen had made its home. Unlike last year’s harvest, which was mostly small and misshapen, plump, yellow-red apples beckoned from nearly every branch in fully developed glory, belying the tree’s age and size.
Apples filled the onetime egg basket as I picked them from the tree, and it didn’t take long to clear it of fruit, save for those I left for the yellow jackets and birds.
Nearly an hour later, my trusty knife and I had peeled, cored and chopped the whole batch.
Aside from some I froze for baking, most of the apples ended up in a big pot on the stove for applesauce.
Alchemy occurred with the addition of heat and just a little bit of water. The apples softened into a chunky sauce, to which the smallest touch of agave nectar was added. A light dusting of cinnamon and lemon zest followed.
The result was truly magical. A highly flavored, not-too-sweet, fresh-tasting, soft but chunky sauce had been formed from the humble fruit.
It isn’t me, however, who deserves the credit; it was the pure taste of one of the best cooking apples on the planet, the Gravenstein. If you’ve never made sauce with them or baked them into a pie, it’s well worth seeking them out for your first experience.
This apple variety is native to Denmark, where it was discovered as a chance seedling in 1669. It was introduced to western North America in the early 1800s by Russian sea traders, who planted a tree at their Fort Ross, California settlement.
Renowned botanist and agricultural pioneer Luther Burbank was particularly fond of the sweet-tart Gravenstein apple. Of it he said, “If the Gravenstein could be had throughout the year, no other apple need be grown.”
I’m not sure I agree with his assessment of doing away with other apples (there are so many kinds to love!), but it reflects the respect the Gravenstein commanded at the time.
The U.S. Gravenstein apple crop is concentrated in western Sonoma County, specifically near the town of Sebastopol.
This amazing apple is a difficult commercial crop. They don’t store well, making them available only in season, and short stems and variable ripening times make harvesting and selling difficult.
Sadly, most commercial Gravenstein orchards have disappeared due to suburban sprawl, grape vineyards, and bad economic conditions. Few growers are left.
In 2005, Slow Food USA declared the Sebastopol Gravenstein apple a heritage food and included it in their Ark of Taste, an international catalog of heritage foods in danger of extinction. I feel grateful whenever I see Gravensteins in a store or on a tree. It’s good to know some still exist, even if in smaller quantities than in the past when they were shipped to World War II troops in the form of dried apples and applesauce.
We are in the midst of apple season, and the Gravenstein is but one of more than 7,500 known cultivars of apples. Most are harvested between August and November.
Apples are divided into three groups: dessert or table apples, which are bred for eating; cooking apples, such as the Gravenstein, which are bred for baking, drying, and making into applesauce; and cider apples, which are typically too tart and astringent to eat fresh, but impart a rich flavor to cider.
Lake County is home to a small handful of commercial apple growers, and their crop may be found at farmers’ markets or in CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) boxes.
Apples are members of the large rose family. Wild ancestors of apples known today still grow in remote mountainous regions of central Asia, such as in southern Kazakhstan and surrounding countries.
Almaty, Kazakhstan’s capital and largest city, derives its name from the Kazak word for apple, “alma.”
I particularly enjoy apples in savory applications. My mother has developed a new favorite dish inspired by Alice Waters. Made with sweet potatoes, apples, and onions sautéed together in a skillet until the apples become caramelized, it’s absolutely delicious as an unusual side dish.
Another favorite of mine is sautéed apples and purple cabbage flavored with fennel or sage. White wine vinegar and currants or raisins add acidity and sweetness, respectively, for a balanced dish. As you can imagine, this is a nice accompaniment to pork or sausages.
Apples may be cored and stuffed with a bit of butter, brown sugar, and cinnamon and then baked until soft and sweet for a dessert reminiscent of apple pie, though a bit healthier. This was something that was often served in my otherwise dessert deprived childhood (and that’s not a complaint).
“An apple a day keeps the doctor away” is a phrase that’s said to have been coined in 19th century Wales, and it’s proven to be true to some extent. Research indicates that apples contribute to good health by reducing the risk of colon, prostate and lung cancer.
They may also help with heart disease, weight loss, and controlling cholesterol. Compared to many other fruits and veggies, apples are relatively low in Vitamin C; however, they’re rich in other antioxidant compounds.
If an apple a day doesn’t keep the doctor away, it will at least delay him or her.
There are so many wonderful ways to use apples: in a rustic tart, for example, or baked into bread or added to butternut squash soup. Today I’ve chosen a twist on baked apples, one of my favorite apple dishes.
This version is made in a crock pot, wonderful for warmer days when ovens are eschewed. And it brings with it another boon: it has the same flavors as apple pie, but comes without the guilt of a fattening crust.
I love that walnuts are included in the recipe, a perfect choice for Lake County locavores. Use your favorite apples in the recipe, either sweet or somewhat tart.
Enjoy!
Crockpot baked apples
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup walnuts, chopped
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon cinnamon
6 apples, cored
1/2 cup apple juice or apple cider
2 tablespoons orange liquor (optional)
Preheat a large crock-pot on high heat and preset it for three hours.
In a large bowl, mix brown sugar, walnuts, butter, and cinnamon. Fill the apples with the filling and place them in the crock-pot.
Pour in the apple juice or cider and the liquor, if using.
Cover and cook 2 1/2 to 3 hours on high heat until the apples are soft and begin to collapse.
Recipe adapted from www.skinnychef.com .
Esther Oertel, a freelance writer, cooking teacher, and speaker, is passionate about local produce and all foods in the vegetable kingdom. She welcomes your questions and comments and may be reached at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.">This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. .