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The Veggie Girl: Cilantro, herb of controversy
I didn’t realize cilantro was controversial until I did research for today’s column.
Apparently, cilantro haters abound. Blogs are devoted to their herbal disdain, as well as a Facebook page that boasts more than 10,000 members.
But I love the stuff. I even went to the cilantro fan page on Facebook and “liked” it, just to counteract the negatives.
I have to admit, though, that it was not love at first bite for me. My initial experience with cilantro was unexpected, a not-so-welcome twist to a restaurant salad.
Not being raised with its taste on our table, it took a while for me to acclimate to cilantro’s unique flavor. But now that I have, I use it broadly in my cooking.
This pungent herb grows freely in such a wide swath of territory (from southern Europe to North Africa and southwestern Asia) that experts have said it’s hard to define where the plant is native and where it recently established itself.
While most of us call it by its Spanish name, cilantro (pronounced sih-LAN-troh), this leafy green herb is also known as coriander and Chinese parsley.
As one of its monikers suggests, coriander seeds, and the corresponding ground version of the spice, are products of the same plant.
Ancient Egyptians cultivated coriander, as evidenced by remnants of the plant found in the tomb of King Tutankhamen, as did the ancient Greeks, who did so from at least the second millennium B.C., according to archaeological records.
Like us, these cultures consumed the leaves and seeds of the plants; however, unlike us, there is evidence the herb was also used for perfume, at least in Greece. As much as I like its taste, I can’t imagine desiring it as a fragrance for my body.
One of the things that draws me back to cilantro (the green, leafy herb) and coriander (the spicy seeds) time and time as I cook is that it influences so many world cuisines.
Mexico (and throughout all of Latin America), Portugal, Southeast Asia (Thailand, for example), India, China, parts of Africa, central Asia (places like Afghanistan and Mongolia), and the Caribbean islands are a diverse group of places where these flavors make themselves at home.
And while we don’t normally associate cilantro with Europe – other than, say, Portugal and Spain – European cooks used the leaves and seeds in cooking well into medieval times. Cilantro pesto, for example, has deeper roots in the Mediterranean region than those made with basil.
Coriander seeds are generally toasted before being ground to bring out their flavor. They’re a prime component of Indian curries, and are one of the five ingredients of the spice blend known as “Chinese Five Spice.”
All parts of the coriander plant are edible: leaves, stems, seeds, and even roots, which are sometimes used as a replacement for garlic in cuisine.
Smart supermarket produce managers typically stock bundles of fresh cilantro well away from the Italian parsley, as the two can be confused based on sight.
There is no confusion with its smell, however. Cilantro should have a pungent aroma, and I always do a “smell test” when shopping to be sure my cilantro is fresh.
In addition to a flavorful smell, fresh cilantro should have bright, evenly-colored green leaves, with no evidence of yellowing.
Cilantro is best stored in the fridge. Place stems in a glass of water (including root, if attached) and cover the top loosely with a plastic bag. Change the water every two to three days. To use, snip off leaves as needed.
I don’t recommend washing cilantro prior to its use, as excess moisture can turn the leaves to slime.
While I haven’t tried this, I’ve been told that fresh cilantro can be frozen, either whole or chopped in an airtight container. It’s said that it shouldn’t be thawed until just before use to preserve its texture.
Another method is to put fresh chopped cilantro in ice cube trays with just enough water or broth to cover. These frozen herbal cubes can then be added to soups or stews for flavor.
As to the seeds or ground spice, store in an air-tight container away from light and heat. Its flavor will begin to diminish in about six months, so be sure to use it within a year.
Coriander has long held a health-supporting reputation. For example, in Europe, it’s been traditionally referred to as an “anti-diabetic” plant, and in India the seeds have been used in traditional medicine as an anti-inflammatory.
Cilantro in herb and seed form contains an impressive array of beneficial phytonutrients, health-supporting plant compounds, which modern research has shown to be effective in controlling blood sugar and cholesterol, as well as cell-damaging free radicals.
To top it off, cilantro has antimicrobial properties, including, according to research, as an effective antibiotic against the Salmonella bacteria.
Whether you buy cilantro at the farmers’ market, grow it in your garden, or find it at your local supermarket, the two simple recipes offered today are delicious ways to add this herb to your culinary arsenal.
The first, cilantro-lime rice, is a wonderful accompaniment for Mexican or Thai-inspired dishes. Its spicy tang adds interest to an otherwise everyday side dish.
The second, cilantro pesto, may be used to dress up pasta, to spread on a pizza crust as a base for grilled prawns or chicken, or dropped into soups or sauces for a burst of flavor.
Before I go, I’d like to address the issue of why cilantro in its leafy form is so avidly hated by some. (If you’ve got a weak stomach, please avoid the next paragraph.)
I’ve seen aversion to cilantro’s taste described in terribly strong terms. One blogger said it tasted like “a decomposing armpit sprayed with liberal amounts of Brut,” and another “the acrid sweetness of death.”
Even in the ancient world there were cilantro haters.
The word coriander is derived from a Greek word for bedbug, purportedly because its smell was reminiscent of bug-infested bedclothes, though modern “cilantrophobes” would describe its smell as soapy, rather than buggy.
There’s a reason for this. Flavor chemists have determined that much of cilantro’s aroma is due to fragments of fat molecules called aldehydes, similar to those found – surprise! – in soap and the bug family of insects.
Some people are more sensitive to this smell than others, including, believe it or not, Julia Child, who was an avid cilantro hater.
There is a remedy, however. A Japanese study published a couple of years ago revealed that crushing the leaves will allow enzymes a chance to gradually convert aldehydes into other aroma-less substances, making dishes which utilize chopped or crushed cilantro (such as those below) more palatable than cilantro in its whole form.
Otherwise, you could hold your nose when eating this otherwise wonderful herb. Or not, if you’re a cilantro lover like me.
Cilantro-lime rice
1 cup long grain white rice
Coarse salt
½ cup fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 garlic clove
In a medium saucepan, bring 1½ cups water to a boil. Add rice and ¼ teaspoon salt; cover and reduce to a simmer. Cook until water is absorbed and rice is just tender, 16 to 18 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a blender, combine cilantro, lime juice, oil, garlic, and 2 tablespoons water; blend until smooth. Stir into cooked rice and fluff with a fork.
Esther’s note: Nearly every lime I’ve squeezed has contained about three tablespoons of juice, so it’s a safe bet that you can get all the juice you need from one plump lime.
Recipe by Martha Stewart and courtesy of www.marthastewart.com .
Cilantro pesto
¾ cup fresh cilantro leaves
¼ cup parsley leaves
2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons pine nuts
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Put all ingredients through olive oil in a bowl of a food processor and process until smooth. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Esther’s note: Walnuts may be substituted for the pine nuts in the recipe, and if a food processor is not available, a blender may be used.
Recipe by Bobby Flay and courtesy of www.foodnetwork.com .
Esther Oertel, a freelance writer, cooking teacher, and speaker, is passionate about local produce and all foods in the vegetable kingdom. She welcomes your questions and comments and may be reached at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. .