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The Veggie Girl: Mustard mutterings
I’m a fool for all types of mustard, from whole seed rustic blends to smooth-as-silk Dijon, from sweet honey mustards to five alarm Chinese varieties.
Even good old American mustard is wonderful in the right setting. Its bright yellow hue is the stuff of ball parks and family picnics.
Mustard, the condiment, is made from the seeds of the mustard plant, a cruciferous vegetable related to broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cabbage.
The leaves of the plant are also edible, lending a spicy note to dishes made with them. While wonderful, we won’t talk about mustard greens here; they’ll be covered in a future column.
For now, we’ll celebrate the delightfully pungent, saucy accompaniment made from the seeds.
There are about 40 different varieties of mustard plants, but only three of these are used for seed production for making mustard: brown, black, and white mustard.
White mustard (botanical name, Brassica alba) seeds have the least amount of volatile oils, so is the most mild in flavor. The seeds are the largest of the three, and range in color from beige or yellow to light brown.
This is the seed from which brightly-toned American mustard is made.
Brown mustard (Brassica juncea) seeds have a pungent taste and are used to make Dijon mustard. They’re dark yellow, rather than brown, in color.
This is the same plant from which mustard greens are harvested.
Black mustard (Brassica nigra) seeds are the smallest and spiciest of the three, and are popular in Indian cuisine, where they’re used as a component of curry, toasted in hot oil or ghee, or processed into cooking oil.
The seeds vary in color from dark brown to black and are often added to rustic, whole seed mustard blends.
The origin of mustard seeds may be traced to areas of Europe and Asia, with white mustard originating in eastern Mediterranean regions, brown in the foothills of the Himalayan mountains, and black in the Middle East.
While there is evidence the ancient Greeks used mustard seeds in cuisine, it is the Romans that experimented with making a paste of the seeds, no doubt the forerunner of the prepared mustards we know today.
The name mustard is derived from the Latin “mustem ardens,” a reference to the use of “must,” an unfermented grape juice used by the Romans in making their version of prepared mustard.
Apicius, an anonymously compiled Roman cookbook of the late fourth or early fifth century, contains a mustard recipe that includes pepper, caraway, grilled coriander seeds, onion, dill, honey and fish stock among its long list of components.
It’s probable that the Romans exported mustard seeds to Gaul (modern day France), leading to the production of mustards there, including the now famous mustard made in the Dijon region by Grey-Poupon, which includes white wine in the recipe.
An early use of the condiment in England, a ball made with coarse-ground mustard seed, cinnamon and flour, was mentioned in William Shakespeare’s “King Henry the Fourth.” These were dried and mixed with vinegar or wine if a paste was desired.
Mustard seeds are mentioned in ancient Sanskrit writings dating back more than 5,000 years. They’re also mentioned in the New Testament (by Christ as a metaphor for the Kingdom of God), and it’s speculated that the referral there is to the black variety.
Dry mustard, the ground powder of mustard seeds, is wonderful when combined with cheese dishes (particularly sharp cheese), such as fondue, Welsh rarebit, and macaroni and cheese.
Mustard and meats go hand in hand, as evidenced by its used with German and Polish sausages, ham, and, of course, hot dogs and hamburgers.
It’s also used in dry rubs for meats, and prepared mustard, alone or combined with other flavors, may be slathered on chicken, pork or other meats prior to cooking.
Hardcore mustard lovers may enjoy rolling meats in a coating of mustard seeds over the prepared mustard before it's tossed on the grill or in the pan or oven.
Mustard is a wonderful flavor for baked beans, either in dried or prepared form.
It’s fantastic when paired with hearty vegetables such as cabbage, carrots or potatoes. (I absolutely love making carrots with honey and Dijon mustard.)
The amount and variety of prepared mustards is astounding. Like microbrewed beer, mustard-making has become a cottage industry, often reflecting a great deal of creativity.
When old world mustards – those from England, Germany, Poland, Holland, France and the like – are added to the mix, the list gets even longer.
Despite the diversity of mustards, mild, citron-hued American mustard is the spread of choice in the U.S. and Canada. It was introduced in 1904 by George T. French, and his remains the most popular brand today.
Mustard may be made with beer in place of vinegar, with whole mustard grains, with fruit such as blueberries, cranberries, or cherries, with added horseradish or hot chili peppers, or sweetened with honey.
It can be hot and sweet, flavored with herbs such as dill or tarragon, or can be uber-hot, like Chinese mustard.
Because of its antibacterial properties (from both the seeds and the vinegar), mustard does not require refrigeration; however, it will last longer if stored in the fridge.
While mustard can last indefinitely, it can dry out, lose flavor, or become oxidized. Mixing in a small amount of white wine or vinegar can revitalize dried-out mustard.
Making mustard at home is amazingly easy. It’s basically a mixture of seeds and the liquid of your choice, such as water, vinegar, wine or beer.
You can vary the pungency and taste of the mustard by combining seeds in varying proportions, balancing the flavors to your liking: white for mildness, brown or black for pungent spiciness.
White and brown seeds can be found at most markets; however, black seeds are a little harder to find, typically requiring a trek to an Indian market or gourmet store.
You can add flavors to your liking – dried herbs for freshness, sweeteners like honey or brown sugar, spices for layers of flavor – and grind it coarse or fine, depending on your taste.
Below is a recipe that will give you the basics of home mustard-making. Once you’ve mastered that, try it with your own unique twists and additions.
If you’re a fan of hot mustards, combining mustard powder and water will achieve that result. Allow it to rest for 15 minutes for the chemical reactions to occur. At that point it will have reached its peak pungency.
If you’re not going to use it immediately, add an acid like vinegar or rice wine to prevent deterioration of flavor.
Before I go, I’d like to share two tips and an oddity.
Tip one: To avoid soggy sandwich bread, spread it with a mixture of butter and dry mustard to seal out moisture. Combine a tablespoon of dry mustard with a cube of softened butter and store in your fridge to use whenever you want your sandwich nice and dry.
Tip two: In recipes, dry and prepared mustard may be substituted for one another. One teaspoon of dry mustard equals a tablespoon of prepared.
And now for the oddity. Did you know there’s a mustard museum? Yep, someone liked mustard enough to open the National Mustard Museum in Middleton, Wisconsin. If you’re curious, check it out here: http://mustardmuseum.com/ .
Be sure to enjoy the bright blooms of the mustard growing in the vineyards this time of year.
Homemade mustard
3 tablespoons yellow (white) mustard seeds
2 ½ tablespoons brown mustard seeds
1/3 cup drinking quality white wine
1/3 cup white vinegar
1 shallot, minced (about 2 tablespoons)
¾ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper
In a non-reactive bowl, combine all ingredients and refrigerate overnight, covered.
Transfer the mustard mixture to a blender and process until mustard has obtained the desired texture and thickness; it is equally delicious whether you leave it chunky or smooth.
Store in an airtight, non-reactive container in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.
Recipe by Chef Emeril Lagasse and courtesy of www.FoodNetwork.com .
Esther Oertel, a freelance writer, cooking teacher, and speaker, is passionate about local produce and all foods in the vegetable kingdom. She welcomes your questions and comments and may be reached at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. .