Mensam Mundum – World Table: Ancient grains for modern times
- ESTHER OERTEL
- Posted On
MIDDLETOWN, Calif. – I’ve adopted a new way of eating lately, and thanks to that, I’ve been enjoying a category of whole foods newly prominent in my meal planning – ancient grains.
Simply put, an ancient grain is one which has remained relatively unchanged through the millennia, free of the selective breeding that characterizes modern grains such as wheat, rice, and corn.
These grains include varieties of wheat (spelt, einkorn, emmer, farro and Khorasan wheat), grains (millet, barley, teff, sorghum and oats), and a category known as pseudocereals (buckwheat, amaranth, quinoa and chia).
Grains were first cultivated when prehistoric communities began to transition from hunting and gathering to farming more than 10,000 years ago.
While modern grains have been developed over time through mutation, selective cropping, breeding, and scientific research, ancient grains are largely the same as the domesticated varieties initially grown thousands of years ago.
For the environmentally conscious, it’s good to know that many ancient grains thrive with lower levels of pesticides, fertilizers, and irrigation. (Of course, in my opinion, anything grown organically is better for us and the environment.)
If you’re watching your gluten intake, a good number of ancient grains are gluten-free. Amaranth, quinoa, millet, buckwheat and teff fall into this category.
While ancient forms of wheat do contain gluten, it exists in lower quantities than in current-day wheat and with a simpler structure than modern wheat gluten.
Packed with nutrition, ancient grains are rich in protein, omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants.
These grains originated in different parts of the world, each with their own culinary story. Some, like barley and oats, have long been part of our national food culture, while others (quinoa, chia, and amaranth, for example) have become popular here in more recent decades.
Let’s learn a little more about some of them.
Amaranth, which the Aztecs cultivated as long as 8,000 years ago, hails from South America. A grass grown for its edible starchy seeds, amaranth has a higher protein content than most grains. It also contains three times the average amount of calcium and is the only grain documented to contain vitamin C.
This hardy plant was an integral part of the Aztec’s religious ceremonies. Its cultivation was banned by the conquistadores upon their conquest of the Aztec nation, but since the plant has grown as a weed since then, its genetic base has been largely maintained.
Buckwheat was first cultivated in the Balkan region of Europe about 6,000 years ago and was one of the first crops grown by the early American settlers. Despite its name, buckwheat is not wheat (rather, it’s related to rhubarb), but pyramid-shaped fruit seeds. These seeds, known as buckwheat groats, are heart-healthy and are high in soluble fiber, which helps keep blood sugar levels steady.
Chia seeds were one of the main foods in the diet of the Aztecs, and their use was first recorded by them more than 5,000 years ago. They’re native to Mexico, Guatemala, and other parts of Central America, where they’ve long been a staple. Rich in antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, and fiber, they have a gelatinous texture when soaked in liquid, which makes them perfect as a binder in gluten-free foods or as a component of vegan pudding.
Einkorn wheat is also known as farro piccolo in Italian or “littlespelt” in English, referring to the fact that each spikelet contains only one grain. It’s the world’s most primitive form of available wheat and is one of the first plants to be domesticated and cultivated. It was grown mainly in eastern areas of the Mediterranean. The name refers both to the wild and cultivated species.
Emmer, the ancient ancestor of modern wheat, is also known as farro medio. It was a primary crop in ancient Egypt and is said to have been the favorite wheat of Julius Caesar. Like einkorn wheat, emmer was one of the first crops cultivated in the Near East and was widely grown in the ancient world.
Farro is a term for three species of hulled wheat (that is, wheat that can’t be threshed) – spelt, emmer, and einkorn. Italians have dined on farro for centuries and it is believed to have fed Roman soldiers. Emmer is by far the most common variety of farro grown in Italy (it’s called “true farro” there) and spelt is more commonly grown in the northern European countries of Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. It has a nutty taste and a pleasantly chewy texture. I especially enjoy it in grain-based salads, particularly when the grains are toasted before cooking.
Khorasan wheat, known commercially as kamut, is an ancient relative of modern durum wheats and is believed to have originated in Mesopotamia. Khorasan refers to a historical region in what is now Afghanistan and Iran. The grain is twice the size of modern-day wheat and is extremely high in protein and rich in minerals. Because of its shape, it’s called “Camel’s Tooth” in Turkey. Another name, “Prophet’s Wheat,” is from a legend that Noah brought the grain with him on the ark.
Millet has its origins in India and Africa and was a main crop in those regions as long as 10,000 years ago. It continues to be most widely cultivated there. Evidence of millet and the tools used to harvest it have been found in ancient archaeological sites. This tiny grain is quite versatile and can be prepared like porridge, mashed like potatoes, fluffed like rice, or ground into flour. A nutritional powerhouse, millet is packed with vitamins and minerals.
Quinoa, a seed used like grain, originated in the Andes Mountains of South America. Its name means “mother grain” in Quechua, the language of the indigenous people there. Once cultivated solely by small farms in the Andean region, production has spread to more than 70 countries. Its wild popularity has caused crop prices to triple since 2006. Related to amaranth, the seeds are rich in protein, dietary fiber, minerals and B vitamins. Its proteins are more digestible than those of meat.
Spelt, also known as Dinkel wheat, was an important staple in parts of medieval Europe and has been cultivated for more than 7,000 years. Once widely grown, the grain fell out of favor and survived as a limited crop in Central Europe and northern Spain before gaining its recent popularity. Slightly sweet and nutty, nutrient-rich spelt is frequently consumed in Germany, Switzerland, and Belgium. Spelt is commonly ground into flour for breads and other baked goods.
Teff is native to the grassy plains of Ethiopia and continues to be a staple there. Injera, a spongy, fermented Ethiopian flatbread, is made from its flour. At 150 times smaller than a single wheat kernel, teff is said to be the tiniest grain on Earth.
Fiber-rich and with a sweet, molasses-like flavor, teff is too small to husk, so is cooked whole. Teff easily melts into stews and gravies and is used as a thickening agent. Its name means “lost” in the Aramaic language due to the ease with which it can slip through one’s fingers.
Nutritious and versatile quinoa, once unknown in the United States, is now readily available in almost every supermarket. It’s the star of today’s recipe, a salad based on the grain with fresh vegetables and an herby vinaigrette.
For extra flavor, cook the quinoa in broth rather than water. Feel free to substitute whatever veggies you have on hand, as quinoa goes with almost anything!
Quinoa salad with fresh vegetables
1 cup quinoa, well rinsed and drained
2 cups cold water
2 tomatoes, chopped
4 large sprigs Italian parsley, leaves only, chopped
¼ English cucumber, chopped
½ cup chopped bell pepper, any color, or a mixture of colors
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ tablespoon freshly chopped garden herbs
Bring quinoa and water to boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Reduce heat and simmer gently for 10 to 15 minutes until the white germ separates from the seed. Cover the pot, remove from heat, and let stand for 5 minutes. Remove the lid, let cool, and fluff with a fork.
In a large bowl, stir together tomatoes, parsley, cucumber, and bell pepper. Add cooled quinoa and stir.
Prepare the dressing in a bowl by whisking together the olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and herbs. Pour over salad and toss to coat.
Esther Oertel is a writer and passionate home cook from a family of chefs. She grew up in a restaurant, where she began creating recipes from a young age. She’s taught culinary classes in a variety of venues in Lake County and previously wrote “The Veggie Girl” column for Lake County News. Most recently she’s taught culinary classes at Sur La Table in Santa Rosa. She lives in Middletown.