The Veggie Girl: Hurrah for jicama

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What’s crunchy, sweet, low in calories, high in fiber, with virtually no fat? Jicama!
 
Pronounced HEE-kah-muh, this vegetable is a popular dietary staple in points south of our border, but may be a bit underappreciated in our culinary culture. Even so, many have embraced it enthusiastically, using it creatively in ways that go far beyond a place on a raw veggie platter.

Jicama, a legume, is also known as the yam bean, and is a low-growing vine native to Mexico. A member of the morning glory family and a relative of the sweet potato, jicama is best known for its large, edible tuberous root.

The other parts of the jicama plant – the vine, leaves, and seeds – contain poisonous compounds and should not be eaten.

Its country of origin, as well as the turnip-like shape and potato-like coloring of its root, serve as inspiration for a couple of its other monikers: Mexican turnip and Mexican yam.

If left to grow indefinitely, jicama roots – those lumpy, humble-looking orbs found in most supermarket produce aisles – can become amazingly big. The largest recorded jicama root was a 23 kilogram specimen from the Philippines. That’s just over 50 pounds!

I doubt any of us will see such gargantuan roots, however, as most jicamas slated for market remain under six pounds.

Jicama has been cultivated by all Mesoamerican civilizations.

The Spanish introduced it to the Philippines in the 17th century, and from there it spread throughout Asia, where it remains popular in the cuisines of China, Vietnam, Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia, India and its Asian landing place, the Philippines.

The root was a popular staple on ocean-traversing ships prior to refrigeration because it stored well, could be eaten raw and was thirst-quenching.

Jicama is available year-round, with its peak season from December to June.

Its light brown, papery skin is tough and should be cut off with a sharp knife to expose jicama’s firm white flesh, which may be used raw or in some cooked applications.

Jicama is moist, crunchy and pleasantly sweet, with a texture similar to a raw potato. Some describe its flavor as somewhat nutty, or as a cross between a water chestnut and an apple.

It’s a popular street food in Mexico, where it’s served raw (sometimes on a stick) with a squeeze of lime and a sprinkle of spicy chili powder.

It’s often combined in salads with citrus fruits such as oranges, tangerines or grapefruits, or in salsas with tropical fruits such as mango and pineapple.

It becomes an unusual component in slaws with ingredients like Napa cabbage, carrots, snow peas, red peppers, mango or cilantro.

Combined with watermelon, mint, lime juice and honey, a refreshing salad is formed.

In addition to these wonderful flavor combinations, chefs have been known to successfully combine jicama with chile peppers, ginger, pumpkin seeds (known as pepitos in Mexico) and queso fresco, a style of Mexican cheese.
 
Jicama provides crunch and texture in spring rolls or in sushi in place of cucumber.

Similar to water chestnuts, jicama can be added to stir fries. Quick cooking methods – or addition at the last minute - are best to retain its characteristic fresh crunch.

Some cooks boil and mash it like potatoes, others add it to stews.

Jicama may also be marinated and grilled. A few minutes on each side until grill marks form is enough.

Jicama, which is composed of nearly 90 percent water, is high in carbohydrates in the form of dietary fiber.

It contains stores of vitamins C, B and A, along with calcium and phosphorous.

When shopping for jicama, look for medium-sized firm tubers with dry roots.

If allowed to become too large, jicama’s sugars will convert to starch, making the flesh woody. Hence the recommendation that roots larger than the size of two fists be avoided.

Be sure not to purchase jicama that has soft or wet spots, as this can indicate rot.

As to appropriate storage of your jicama, who would have thought of this as a controversial subject? Apparently there are two opposing schools of thought.

Some recommend storing it in the fridge in a plastic bag, where they claim it will keep well for about two weeks.

In contrast to this, others eschew refrigeration, saying its moisture can cause mold and early spoilage. They insist that storing jicama in a cool, dry, dark place outside the fridge is the way to go.

If using this storage method, the recommended temperature is between 53 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Proponents claim that if jicama roots are fresh when purchased, they’ll keep for between one and four months when stored this way.

In case you’re wondering, I’ve had bad luck storing jicama in the fridge and prefer to store it in my pantry. I’ve never kept it for more than a couple of weeks, though, so can’t attest to longevity.

Both sides do agree that jicama should be stored in the fridge once cut.

The creamy texture of avocado is a pleasant contrast to jicama’s fresh, snappy crunch, and the recipe offered today combines these two ingredients, as well as the supporting flavors of lime, scallions and mint.

If available, experiment with different types of limes (such as golden limes like the Rangpur or calamansi). Since the acidity of each variety will be different, adjust the ratio of lime to oil as needed.

Before I go, did you know that our friend, jicama, has a stepbrother of sorts, the milk jicama (jicama de leche in Spanish)?

This jicama is oblong in shape and produces a milky juice.

In contrast, the more popular turnip-like jicama sold in stores is called jicama de agua (or water jicama) because it produces a translucent juice.

What’s amazing is that both these jicamas grow from the same seed.

Have a wonderful Sunday! Enjoy this unseasonably balmy weather, which is perfect for a refreshing salad and the pleasant crunch of jicama.

Avocado and jicama salad with lime vinaigrette

1 head butter lettuce, the leaves separated
1 head Romaine lettuce, the heart leaves only, or several handfuls small spinach leaves and arugula leaves
1 small jicama, about ½ pound
2 large avocados, ripe but firm
Zest of one lime, plus one tablespoon juice
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
2 scallions, including an inch of the green stems
15 mint leaves, torn into small pieces

Wash and dry the greens. Slice them into narrow ribbons and set aside.

Peel the jicama and sliver it into very thin matchsticks.

Peel and slice the avocados into wedges.

Whisk the lime zest, juice and olive oil together with a few pinches of salt.

Slice the scallions into long, thin slivers.

Toss the greens with the jicama, avocado, scallions, mint and a few pinches of salt. Then dress the salad with enough vinaigrette to coat lightly but thoroughly.

Season with pepper and serve.

This recipe by Deborah Madison is from the cookbook “Local Flavors: Cooking and Eating from America’s Farmers’ Markets.”

Esther Oertel, a freelance writer, cooking teacher, and speaker, is passionate about local produce and all foods in the vegetable kingdom. She welcomes your questions and comments and may be reached at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

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