
KELSEYVILLE, Calif. – On a recent afternoon I had the pleasure of visiting what I imagine is one of the most aptly named agricultural spaces in the world – Peace and Plenty Farm in Kelseyville.
I sat under the shade of a spreading walnut tree with Melinda Price, who, along with her husband, Simon Avery, developed the only commercial organic saffron farm in North America.
With our chairs appropriately distanced, we sipped the house-made lavender lemonade sold at their farm stand and chatted about saffron, farming and making dreams come true.
Saffron, a spice derived from the purple Crocus sativus, is ounce for ounce the most expensive food in the world, rivaling the price of truffles, caviar and even gold.
Each bloom produces three red stigmas, also known as threads, apt since they look a bit like frayed filaments. These are harvested by hand, making saffron a deeply labor-intensive crop, leading to its steep price.

Blooms are picked before the sun hits them to preserve the integrity of the saffron. Once the flowers are collected, each thread is painstakingly plucked from their centers. The threads are then dried to be sold as saffron.
It’s backbreaking and time-consuming work but deeply satisfying to Price and Avery, who first began growing organic saffron in Lake County in 2017.
Saffron is beloved in cuisines around the world – from Europe to North Africa to Asia – and is particularly essential to the food of Iran, India and Morocco. It’s a crucial ingredient in some classic European dishes, where it’s been popular since Medieval times – think Spanish paella, French bouillabaisse or Swedish saffron buns.
Iran produces the bulk of the world’s saffron crop – a full 90 percent – and may well be the place of origin of the lovely saffron crocus; however, there are other contenders, namely Greece and Mesopotamia.
Though growers exist in other parts of the world, saffron is grown chiefly in the Mediterranean region in a belt from Spain in the west to Kashmir in the east. Spain and Kashmir both claim their saffron to be superior in quality to the mass amounts grown in Iran.

California’s Mediterranean climate is ideal for growing saffron, a factor that contributed to Avery and Price’s decision to cultivate it in Lake County.
They had considered other specialty crops – mushrooms, wasabi, vanilla, hops – but none were exactly what they were looking for. For example, mushrooms would have them working inside rather than out, and hops require a lot of water, not the best choice for drought-ridden California.
When Avery heard about saffron farming via a National Public Radio broadcast, something clicked. The crop checked all their proverbial boxes.
Shortly afterward – and before they had purchased land – Price found herself on a plane to Vermont where she would attend a workshop on growing saffron. She returned from the conference with 7,500 crocus bulbs known as corms. They were committed.
This was in February of 2017, and by June they had purchased the former Gaddy Ranch in Kelseyville. Within three months they had planted all 7,500 corms.

There’s a quick turnaround between planting and harvesting with saffron. If corms are planted in early September, flowers can bloom as quickly as October. Their timing was perfect for a harvest in their first year.
It wasn’t easy. They contended with star thistle, which stood more than 6 feet tall in places. Gophers and voles destroyed many of their corms until Avery designed and installed a planting system to thwart them.
Their hard work has paid off. The 7,500 corms have grown to 500,000 and last year they harvested a full kilo of dried saffron.
In addition to saffron, the farm has a lush and productive market garden that provides vegetables for the year-round farm stand, and a cottage that is available for farm stays.
Eggs from their large flock of chickens, dry-farmed walnuts, flowers, and a variety of saffron-infused value-added products like honey and soap are also sold at the farm stand, which is open daily from 9 a.m. till dusk.

As Price and I enjoyed the peace of the walnut orchard, Avery ambled by on a lawn mower. He stopped long enough to say hello and afterward I learned that his native England has a history of saffron farming.
The Essex town of Saffron Walden, whose coat of arms includes a saffron crocus, grew the crop in the 16th and 17th centuries. English saffron farmers in those times were known as croquers, a moniker derived from crocus.
Since ancient times, saffron has been used as a treatment for a variety of ailments. Modern studies reveal a high antioxidant content, with associated benefits stemming from that, not the least of which is reducing inflammation in the body.
Saffron enhances memory (studies reveal it can help Alzheimer’s patients) and is a mood improver. There is growing evidence that saffron may be a useful treatment addition for depression.
Saffron, which has a nuanced flavor with sweet floral and earthy notes, may be used to enhance a wide variety of foods, but pairs especially well with rice (think paella or saffron rice), seafood (think bouillabaisse), chicken (even chicken soup!), curries and baked goods.
A simple tea can be made by steeping a bit of saffron in warm water. Alternatively, let saffron soak in water overnight in the fridge for an iced version.
Price enjoys saffron steamed milk with her daily espresso, which I think would be utterly delightful with some buttery saffron shortbread.

Since its flavor is best released through heat, steeping saffron in hot (but not boiling) liquid as part of the cooking process is key. The liquid in your recipe, whether water, broth or wine, can be used for this.
Saffron may also be toasted in a pan and then crushed for addition to recipes; however, be aware that it burns easily, rendering it unusable.
A little goes a long way with saffron and the flavor is stronger in a dish the second day. Usually, a pinch, just a few threads, is all you need.
Protect saffron from light and moisture when storing it and be sure its container is clean and free from scent as saffron is known to easily absorb odors and flavors.
And finally, refrain from using wooden utensils when stirring your saffron-infused dish as its luscious flavor might be absorbed into the spoon.
If you wish to learn more about Peace and Plenty Farm, their online shop or farm stays, visit them at www.peaceplentyfarm.com.
Today’s recipe is for golden milk with saffron. Golden milk is a soothing drink infused with turmeric and other warm spices. I’ve adapted this version to include saffron.
In addition to being comforting and delicious, the turmeric, ginger and saffron help reduce inflammation in the body, making it a healthful treat.
Golden milk with saffron
Ingredients
1 teaspoon coconut oil
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
5 whole peppercorns
1-inch section unpeeled ginger root, roughly chopped
1 cinnamon stick, broken into several pieces
3 to 4 cardamom pods
2 threads saffron
1 cup coconut milk (or other milk of your choice)
1 teaspoon honey
Procedure
Add the coconut oil and all spices except saffron to a saucepan. Heat over low heat for two to three minutes until aromatic.
Add the milk and saffron to the saucepan and warm mixture over medium-low heat until hot and steaming but not boiling.
Strain the mixture through a fine sieve. Pour strained milk into a cup, add the honey and enjoy!
Esther Oertel is a writer and passionate home cook from a family of chefs. She grew up in a restaurant, where she began creating recipes from a young age. She’s taught culinary classes in a variety of venues in Lake County and previously wrote “The Veggie Girl” column for Lake County News. Most recently she’s taught culinary classes at Sur La Table in Santa Rosa. She lives in Middletown.
